Karen Grigorian – Master pleater

Ile-de-France – 1966

Karen Grogiran is a master pleater. He was born in Armenia and grew up alongside his weaver’s grandparents. When he arrived in France in the 90’s, he discovered and learned his know-how method. For 10 years, he has been working in the mechanical pleating workshop Plissé Garbis and remaining for 14years at Ateliers Lognon.

In 2014, he founded his workshop, La Maison du Pli, where he created projects for haute couture houses such as Valentino, Margiela and Fendi, as well as designers and artists such as Clément Cogitore. He responds to the wildest desires of fashion and interior designers, who entrust him with their sketches. He tries to translate their ideas by enriching them with his techniques. Equipped with his two folded cardboard, he inserts the textile between them, rolls them up and ties them before putting them in his steam oven at temperatures around 80/100°. Once removed, the cardboard moulds are left to mature for a minimum of six hours, allowing the fabric to take on the desired shape.

Research and innovation

Karen Grigorian works exclusively with his hands, experimenting shapes on his kraft cardboard to imagine new moulds. His orders are also a source of inspiration, as the designs are sometimes complex. These force him to explore new shapes and materials such as fabric, leather, paper, wax, bronze and even plastic. “I’m delighted to receive designers with sometimes innovative suggestions for materials, it also makes me aware of the possibilities and, in a way, the power of this know-how.”  These effects are made possible by his ovens, customised to his wishes, allowing him to control power consumption and temperature. All in a more responsible and economical process.

Transmission

Karen Grigorian’s aim is to restore traditional pleating to its former glory, thanks to the workshop he has set up with his three children. They regularly come to help him, and his son Roudolph supports him full-time. He takes part in trade fairs and gives talks on his craft. Every year, he also welcomes trainees to pass on his savoir-faire.

As one of the last hands pleaters in France, Karen Grigorian approached the Fondation Rémy Cointreau to help him develop his activity. To do this, he wants to acquire 4 electric belts for a new recycled oven to help control his electricity consumption, and electrical equipment for his folding machine.